Tuesday, September 28, 2010

Vladivostok

There are about 300,000 people in Vladiovostok and 600,000 cars.  Cars everywhere.  Cars parked on streets, on sidewalks, anywhere a car could be squeezed, cars were stuck in traffic, there was gridlock, some played Russian roulette in traffic circles (breathtaking to watch), some actually followed in lanes and all of this was done with almost no signals.  Crossing streets was a thrill.

The Russians have one expression - glum.  At least the women don't have to worry about wrinkles as they never smile.  It seems like a tough existance so maybe they don't have much to smile about.  I need to learn more about the history of Vladiovostok but when artists, muscians, writers, etc were exiled to Siberia they ended up in this town and it flourished.  After the Cultural Revolution it began to deteriorate and for about 50 years it was closed, even to Russians.  It was re-opened in 1992 and has a lot of catching up to do.  The buildings are in bad shape and sidewalks and stairs are crumbling.  Everyone lives in government built apartments.  They are very small, some have one room plus a bathroom yet cost @$1,000 a month. 

Our tour bus had seen better days but it was really decorated!  Each seat was covered with a white dish towel size fabric bordered with a blue folkloric design.  Around the entire inside above the windows was a shaped brocade valance adorned with two scalloped rows of ball fringe.  Pretty funky!  Our first stop was Eagles Nest Hill for a nice view of the harbor.  Brian asked our guide, Olga (perfect name), about the naval fleet and was told there was none here.  I reworded his question and asked about submarines but no, they weren't here either.  We could see several naval ships, many uniformed sailors and some kind of a navy headquarters so evidently the guides can not talk about the military.  Our English dinner friends visited a school teacher's apartment where she had to sign in and out each time, so someone knew where she was at all times.  Aren't we lucky to live in the U.S.?

We toured a submarine that we scrambled through which was fun.  No signs were in English but I learned the submarine was famous for downing five ships during WWII and the Captain was awarded The Hero of the Soviet Union.  We visited the "Square of the Fighters for Soviet Power in the Far East" (whew).  This is a central square that was built for large celebrations which also include a military tank to oversee events.  It looks like a gigantic parking lot with a couple of statues.

We went to the railroad station and got to see the Trans Siberian train leaving for Moscow, a 7-day trip.  Brian loved that but after seeing the train we agreed we'd never want to take that trip.   We walked to Gum Department Store which I was anxious to visit.  It looked like a series of boutiques merchandised like a store from the 1950's.  In the afternoon, Brian was relaxing on our deck when he was startled by a fly over of MIG fighter jets.  They returned and I got a photo.  It was exciting and creepy at the same time. 

We were late leaving port due to a confused Chinese passenger hanging on to his passport.  When we finally got clearance, 28 immigration officers marched off the ship in formation, down the pier and finally into some building.  They are very serious about immigration here.  Many people came to the pier to see the ship sail but only occasionally did someone wave.  This has been a fascinating port.
Top Eagles Nest
Square of the Fighters...

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